I looked at my phone and saw it was John John and picked up. “ Yea Nelly’ did you see that swell going to P-Pass?” John asked. I had literally just got home from Micronesia the day before! I looked at the forecast while we are on the phone, and saw what looked like the biggest West swell of the year! “Lets go!” I said into the phone and the next thing I knew, I was back open a flight with John and Nathan Florence, Tanner and Dane Gudauskas, and Reagan Ritchie. The swell was big and clean, and pumped for days on end. This day was crazy, and I swam for 3 1/2 hours. The waves were huge and kinda hard to hook up. I knew we had a few decent ones in the bag, but not the one we wanted. My legs were toast and cramping. A huge set came in and John grabbed the first wave of the set. It was big and clean and doubled up and he stood up and cruised past me in the barrel for what seemed like forever.

I came through the back and knew I was gunna get annihilated. The set out back was enormous. 
  

I didn’t even bother trying to swim out. The first one threw me to the bottom and dragged me along the bottom and ripped my housing out of my hand. I was losing my breath, I came up gasping and the next one landed on my head. At first i was worried about my warehousing, and losing that magic sequence of john I had just gotten, but now I was getting drilled on the bottom and was more worried about not having any energy left.

 

When the set finally ended I was gasping and I had been ripped under water for 200 yards.

 

I limped back to the dingy with a big smile on my face, I knew we had scored something special.

_Nelly